Ultracycling: Riding in the Rain
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Riding in the Rain

by Terry Zmrhal

In 2006 Ken Bonner and Kent Peterson will be writing equipment articles in UltraCycling magazine. Bonner has ridden more 1200Ks than any other North American. Peterson is a bike mechanic and an experienced randonneur. Members who join the UMCA in December for 2006 will also receive the Nov-Dec UltraCycling.



Winter is just around the corner. Soon it will be time for ultra riders to bundle up and brave the weather that lies ahead - well at least those riders in the northern half of the country will. Some of the toughest weather to ride in is when it's cold and wet. If you're prepared it doesn't have to be so rough. Being prepared means having the right clothes, outfitting the bike, doing a bit of maintenance, and being a little more cautious on the road.

Clothes
Let's start with clothes. You are going to get wet riding in the rain. Either you can forget about the rain jacket and let the rain soak your clothes or you can don the latest wonder-fabric creating your own personal sauna. While wet clothes are never enjoyable, being warm and damp is certainly better than being cold and soaked. There are three primary areas to consider: the upper body, lower body, and the extremities (hands, feet, and head).

Upper Body: Most people wear some type of rain jacket on the upper body. There are many claims of fabrics being breathable and waterproof (I have yet to find anything to breathe for me). The best alternative is to find a jacket that allows you to adjust ventilation and thus the amount of air that reaches your body. Here's my list of key features a jacket should have:

  • Pit zips: zippers under the arms, which allow you to adjust the ventilation.
  • Velcro or double zipper for the front: this is where most of the air comes through, make sure it's very adjustable.
  • Open wrists, which can be cinched down: most jackets have elastic at the wrists, but it's surprising how much air can circulate from here.
  • Protective collar: you want a comfortable collar that's high enough not to let water drip down inside the jacket.
My favorites are the Burley jackets, which provide good rain protection and allow you to adjust ventilation in key areas. For a plain rain jacket, the RainShield jackets are good although they provide no ventilation at all (www.rainshield.com). They won't last forever, but for $30 it's a tough price to beat.

Here's one more tip for keeping the upper body warm. Start your ride with newspaper next to your skin front and back. Several hours into the ride pull out the wet newspaper and you'll have a dry jersey! Of course you'll need a good scrubbing when you get home to remove all the newspaper ink on your body. In a pinch a garbage bag also works (be sure to punch holes in it for your head and arms though).

Lower Body: Your legs are doing all the work so wearing any kind of rain pant is likely to get your legs quite warm, can restrict some movement, and will make quite a bit of noise. Instead find wool tights or tights with a windbreak front. MEC has a nice pair (www.mec.ca). If that doesn't suffice try mountaineering gaiters for just the lower legs or even spats. Spats are an English combination of a gaiter and bootie. Or take a pair of rain pants and cut off the back. I've never tried this, but it seems like it would work. You really need the protection on the front not the back.

Head: Wear something to cover at least the ears. If it's really dumping hard consider using a helmet cover. A cheap alternative is a shower cap from a motel! I use a runner's cap with a stiff bill that covers my head and helps to keep my glasses clean.

Hands: Wool or fleece gloves work well. When it gets really wet and windy I recommend a pair of Goretex lobster overmitts made by Outdoor Research. They fold up small and fit almost anywhere. Your hands need to be warm enough to at least control the brakes and hopefully shift as well.

Feet: Start with wool socks and add layers. A Goretex or other waterproof sock can help, if nothing else for another layer and wind protection. You can add toe covers or go all the way and use booties. For booties find a pair that has Velcro on the back, such as the booties at MEC. The all too common zippers are tough to deal with.

Bike
Now that the body is protected, it's time to work on the bike. Fenders are a must if you're going to ride in the rain a lot. If you're going to ride with a group you need to have full fenders including a rear mudflap. If you just ride alone, you can get away with fenders that come on and off quickly. For full fenders I recommend the SKS brand. There's no doubt fenders can be a nuisance to put on and keep from rubbing the wheel, particularly when trying to use them with side-pull brakes. Nevertheless, once they are on, they do a great job at keeping water from splashing on your feet and sending a spray of water up your back and on your shorts. They also help keep the bike from getting really dirty.

I also recommend some tougher, wider tires. I use Specialized Armadillos in the winter and rarely get flats - they are very tough, but also heavy, slow tires. You can also use thicker tubes or Mr. Tuffys.

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Finally, use a heavier chain lube - something like Phil Wood. It's better to have lots of gunk on your chain than to be in the middle of a ride and hear the annoying squeaks of a dry chain.

Maintenance
Now that the bike is prepared there are a few maintenance items you'll need to do every other week. Checking the tires can help reduce flats. I turn the bike upside down and check for bits of glass or other debris that have been lodged in the tire. I usually find several pieces to pull out. Every other week clean off the rim as well. Even a heavier chain lube can wash off in a heavy rain, so check the chain to see if it needs re-lubing every so often. The rest of the bike you can leave dirty until spring - cleaning it only provokes the rain gods into providing some liquid sunshine the next time you ride.

Riding
Once you're out on the road:

  • Don't ride through puddles - you never know if there's a pothole lurking there or not.
  • Take the descents a little easier.
  • Give yourself extra space and time to stop - those brake pads aren't going to grip as well.
  • Ride a little slower so you don't sweat as much.
  • Take an extra jersey or under layer to change into during the ride.

One last word of warning - cold and wet can quickly seep through all those clothes and into your bones. Be aware of how cold you really are and find some place warm or some hot chocolate if you're reaching your limits. Riding in the rain isn't so bad if you and your bike are prepared!




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